St Albans Museum and Gallery Cafe

Published in The Herts Advertiser June 2018

I feel quite emotional writing about the new St Albans Museum and Gallery – the transformation is, at last, complete, and we now have a terrific cultural space right in the centre of our city. I had been to the old cafe in the Town Hall, as it was known then, over the years and it was always busy, especially on market days when people would sit outside. I think it looked dated with the swirling fans and dark panelling everywhere.

The new cafe space feels very different. As you walk into the Museum and Gallery, the counter and kitchen occupies the right-hand side of the entrance, leaving space opposite for tourist information and the shop (with the poshest tea towels ever). Queue up with a tray along the smart, marble counter, and order lunch, cakes and drinks as you move along to the till. Seating is either outside under the four large umbrellas, or you take your tray into the courtroom, which now has seating. I love the new use of the courtroom – when I went in people were really exploring it, sitting in the judge’s chair and standing in the dock before heading down to the cells. Tables are located as you walk into the courtroom so there is flat and easy access if you need it (cafe staff will help you with your tray if you need it). You can also sit at benches that wrap around the courtroom or sit in the ‘pit’ area; light floods the room and there are fresh flowers on the table. Surely this must be one of the quirkiest cafes in the country? The loos are in the old cells so go and check those out!

We went in last week for lunch and the cafe has a short and seasonal menu that changes most days. The chefs you see working in the kitchen make all the food (save a few baked goods) so they can vary the menu easily. There is usually a soup (good value at under 5 a bowl), a couple of cooked options and hearty sandwiches. I chose stuffed pepper with two salads for under 8; I thought the watermelon salad was delicious. The potato salad was pleasant but together they were an odd combination. The pepper was very good but I would have liked both halves for the cost. The feta, rocket and chutney sandwich looked lovely and generous, and I saw a few people choose the sausage turnover with date and ale chutney (a nice British touch). The queue moved along quickly and the staff were smiley and keen to help.

I’ve been in twice for cake; the first time was towards the end of the day and they had run out of nut-free cakes (for my partner), but the second time the selection was excellent. Bakewell tart, pistachio and blueberry buns, carrot cake, raspberry and oat slice, chocolate brownie, and with prices from 2.50 to 3.95, good value. I shared an almond and raspberry cake, which was divine and you could pick up a free recipe sheet if you want to make it yourself. Coffee was very good and I like that you can get a mug of tea for 1.50. The herbal teas were a little pricey at 3, but you get enough for two cups. There are jugs of tap water with proper glasses (yay, no plastic). It was easy to find somewhere to sit, and there was a lovely atmosphere outside on market day, with music from a nearby stall.

Keep an eye out for the late night events at the Museum and Gallery; the bar will be open and the plan is to offer food specially themed to the touring exhibitions. I love that the cafe team run by Leafi (who also run a cafe at Somerset House, Turner Contemporary and Burgh House in Hampstead) can offer this flexibility – the large chains just can’t. I look forward to going again.

New Year, New You?

Published in WH Times, Jan 2019

There is a lot of information about eating at this time of year: veganuary, weight loss plans, juicing, 5-2 diets, marathon training plans… but what many of us need is just some sensible support and advice that is tailored to us. We are all different, after all, with different needs.

I have been following Deirdre Swede on instagram; she is based in Welwyn and I like her sensible, real-life approach to eating well. I got in touch with Deirdre to ask if she had any advice for our readers this January.

Deirdre has been a Registered Nutritional Therapist for a year, and offers relaxed, one-to-one support as well as group workshops. She is very easy to talk to and her focus is on helping you to feel great, more energised, and to make small, positive changes if you need to. Deirdre told me that we tend to focus on what we need to cut out, but her approach is to make sure we eat enough of what our bodies actually need. “So many of us beat ourselves up about what we eat; I think we should focus on what we do well”, she explained.

In January, Deirdre suggests eating plenty of warming and nourishing porridge, soups and stews. She mentioned that eating salads and raw foods can be a bit tough at this time of year. One tip is to treat yourself to a veg box delivery scheme; it is a great way to make sure you eat seasonal, fresh vegetables, including some you might not always buy, and will help you to “eat the rainbow”.

Deirdre also offers group workshops: her most recent was on hormone health and was ideal for peri- or menopausal women (basically most of us in our 40s and 50s!). At the workshop Deirdre spoke about how sleep and stress can have an impact on your health, and cooked beetroot dip, dahl, roast vegetables and soup to show how easy it is to get more vegetables and pulses into your day. The next workshop is planned for 11 February (19.15-21.30). You can contact Deirdre via nutrition@deirdreswede.co.uk and her facebook page has lots of ideas for eating well.

Datchworth Coffee Shop

Published in WH Times, November 2018

Pretty Datchworth is tiny, but incredibly well-served for good food, with The Tilbury and lovely Datchworth Coffee. The former Post Office was transformed earlier this year by owner Jas Newington and has a smart new look. I love the modern grey signage alongside the red phone box and post box. Inside is ‘industrial chic’ with exposed brickwork and funky lighting. There is an enclosed courtyard area at the back too which is very popular with cyclists and dog walkers (there are heaters if needed).

We popped in for lunch midweek and I liked the short, useful lunch menu including a soup, a couple of hot sandwiches and two salads. I chose the nicoise salad which was generous and I liked that the potatoes were freshly pan-fried. My partner chose a bacon, avocado and tomato melt which was served open and looked very appealing. The hummus and roasted vegetable panini sounds good too.

The cafe gets lots of regulars in for morning coffee and breakfast. Avocado on sourdough with eggs and bacon is very popular and you can also choose American-style pancakes, bacon baps and full cooked veggie and meaty breakfasts. The team use local suppliers including Bridget B’s for meats, Dawlicious ice cream and Tring Brewery, and their very good coffee is roasted in Hertfordshire by Campbell & Syme.

Jas’s home-baked cakes are a big draw, especially for the weekend cyclists, and we bought a slice of lemon drizzle cake to take home. You could also choose Bakewell tart, carrot cake, gluten-free chocolate brownies or freshly baked croissants.

Datchworth Coffee does monthly supper clubs, although you do have to get in quickly! November’s Winter Warmers sounds lovely, with hearty pies and sticky toffee pudding, but I’m afraid it has sold out! If you want to check out the menu for next time, pop in to talk to the team. They have an alcohol licence too.

Datchworth Coffee is open every day except Monday, and Jas told me that she has felt very welcomed by the locals. I think it is a great asset to the village.

The Cowper Arms, Cole Green

Published in WH Times, December 2018

Winter is the perfect time to head to a cosy pub and sit by a real log fire, and if that is after a country walk, all the better. The Cowper Arms in pretty Cole Green is right next to the Cole Green Way, surrounded by trees and is the perfect escape from working life. I visited last week to see the new refurbishment, and it has been transformed, with a smart new interior that makes the most of the lovely old building and surrounds.

If you just want to pop in for a drink, there are three cosy areas at the front of the pub, with two real fires. They have expanded their gin, cocktail and fizz list; I chose a Sevilla bitter orange gin which went well with a sprig of fresh rosemary.

The dinner menu has lots of choice, including plenty of pub favourites. We loved the roasted lentil falafel from the meze plate; a light texture with whole chickpeas in it. My king prawn roll with dipping sauce was beautifully prepped with crisp, fresh julienne vegetables. I chose lobster and crab fishcakes with smashed peas and it was a generous plateful for 13.50. The fishcakes were good but I didn’t think the asparagus was needed and is out of season in December.

My pal thought the roasted pork belly with seared scallops was great; it was served with dauphinoise potatoes, green beans and toasted almonds so you don’t need to order side dishes. I thought the menu was a little light on interesting vegetarian and vegan options, but if you like fish, steaks and pizzas there is plenty of choice for you. We chatted to manager Russell, who like many of the team, have worked at The Cowper Arms for years, and I am sure the chefs can adapt the menu if you need them too.

Everyone seemed excited and proud of the new pub and were looking forward to seeing all the regulars back again. I will definitely be back, and am looking forward to the lovely garden in summer!

St Albans’ best restaurant?

The Abbey, George St, St Albans

Published in The Herts Advertiser, November 2018

The cathedral quarter in St Albans goes from strength to strength and has attracted some very good restaurants, bars and food shops recently. It always looks lovely at this time of the year, and I am sure many of you will be heading there for Christmas drinks and food.

I have been meaning to write about The Abbey for a while, as it opened earlier this year with a very smart launch, but I wanted to go when the fuss had died down, to see what it is really like. Executive Chef Cat Ashton has an excellent background; she was head chef at Petersham Nurseries and at Paradise by Way at Kensal Green. Petersham Nurseries held a Michelin star and is known for its creative seasonal cooking, and Kat has brought that experience with her to St Albans. It’s also interesting to note that Kat is the only female head chef in Hertfordshire at the moment; I hope this is the start of a trend!

Set in an old, narrow building on George Street, The Abbey has a smart bar area as you go in, though space is limited so it is probably best for a quick pre-dinner drink. The area at the back of the ground floor is lovely, with a quirky floral wall that brings a lot of character to the enclosed space. Upstairs there are two rooms, one of which is ideal for private dining, which is becoming ever more popular in St Albans. The Living Room at the front of the building has a large fireplace and views over George Street and the smaller Abbey View holds one long table that sits up to 10 people and would be lovely for a group of pals.

We were seated downstairs and I didn’t love the spot; it felt like we were in a busy corridor – I realise this is tricky to avoid in a narrow building, but they might need to rethink the room layout so every customer gets a good experience. It is busy, so you do need to book.

The menu is short and seasonal, with four starters, four main courses and four puds. I chose Grilled sea bream with curry butter, corn and coconut purée, curly kale and mushrooms; it was a clever combination of seasonal elements with a nod to Kat’s Australian background. It was beautifully presented, well-balanced and delicious. My husband chose Brown-sugar glazed short ribs with celeriac purée, fennel remoulade and pomegranate, and we ordered some autumn greens which went well with both, I also liked the sound of the roast pumpkin and halloumi wrapped in filo with pistachio mayo, which is more interesting than the usual veggie options. Mains range from about 15 to 22 pounds, which is pretty standard for this level of cooking.

I loved my medjool date and Kahlua crème brûlée with fresh figs and walnut cookie for pud; the date compote was a fab combination with the brûlée. I tried some of the dark chocolate torte with pear and rosemary honeycomb, and that was excellent too. Service of 12.5% is added; I prefer to add my own, but this does seem to be the norm now in many restaurants. The food arrived promptly, which shows that the kitchen is well-organised but otherwise I thought the service seemed a bit chaotic which added to the feeling of sitting in a corridor.

I have heard good things about the bottomless brunch they serve at weekends. Main courses sound wonderful, for example: Cream cheese stuffed french toast with crispy bacon, blueberries and maple syrup and Scrambled eggs on sourdough with chorizo, rocket salad and roast pumpkin. You can get Autumn cherry Bellinis to go with it.

The Abbey has already gained a good reputation locally for great cooking and I think has the potential to be St Albans’ best restaurant; it just needs to work out how to make the best of its historic building.