Infuse, St Albans

Published in The Herts Advertiser August 2019

After the fourth person told me that I had to try Infuse, I took the hint. People often tell me where they have been for dinner, and what they thought of it, but it’s rare for lots of people to be so overwhelmingly positive about a new opening.

So on a quiet summer evening (St Albans empties in the school holidays) I went with glamorous pals to try the new restaurant tucked away on Waddington Road.

We were too late for the ‘Ladies Night’ two for one cocktails offer advertised outside (a little cheesy, but they did sound delicious) but chose a bottle of rose on the advice of the waiter who said it was definitely dry. It was lovely, and went well with the food we ordered. We were given a generous bottle of tap water quickly too.

We loved the short, one page menu organised by snacks, tandoor & grill, curries and biryani, and sides. Our waiter explained that you can order tapas/sharing style or just jump into main courses, and showed us a short video of some of the dishes. I thought it was a bit gimmicky but we did choose a few things we didn’t know from the video, so I was wrong, it was helpful. We chose a range of things, with some as shared starters, and then more for main courses – prices are very reasonable so its a great way to try some new dishes.

Co-owner Sameer came over to say hello, and explained that the ethos behind the short menu is to cook fresh food with lot of flavours typical to the cities the dishes come from, such as Delhi makni paneer (8.50) and Kerala Prawn Curry (14.50). We loved both of these; the paneer was cut into generous chunks and grilled lightly so pillowy inside. The prawns were generous and lightly cooked ,so full of flavour.

The tawa fish ajwani was delicious too; beautifully cooked pieces of fish and well presented. Salmon tikka from the tandoor menu would make an excellent healthy main course on its own, but we all shared a bit – again, perfectly cooked. Each dish was delicately spiced, and you could really taste the flavours, with no overwhelming chilli.

We shared the Chana peshawar with ginger matchsticks (8) and baingan hydrabadi, which had generous pieces of softly cooked aubergine. I think we also had a Jaipuri Aloo, but after the second bottle of rose, I can’t remember. You can definitely eat well here if you are vegetarian. The baingan is usually served with the birianis, which are Infuse’s signature dish, cooked in the proper way with a dum (dough lid); the flavours are sealed inside, and the lid is opened at the table. As we don’t eat meat, we had to pass on this, but Sameer said they are experimenting with a vegetarian version. I will go back for that, and meat-eaters; this is the dish people are raving about. I think one (12.50) is enough for two to share, with a couple of side dishes, which is a steal in this area.

I noticed that they also do a lunch menu, with wraps and curry bowls for £5. You pay more for that at the food stalls in town, so this is a great deal.

Head Chef and co-owner Ganga Dutt has worked with some very prestigious London restaurants in Mayfair and central London like Chutney Mary, Tamarind, Kricket and Indali lounge. I think we are incredibly lucky that he is now cooking here in St Albans. The cooking at Infuse is among the very best I have tried locally; excellent ingredients and with delicate cooking, full of flavour. The location, overlooking the side of a building, isn’t the nicest, but go for the amazing cooking. I think you will love it too.

Mad Squirrel St A & Harpenden

Published in The Herts Advertiser July 2019

I have written about the site in Heritage Close next to Lussmann’s quite a few times over the years; the latest incarnation is a craft beer bar, and it already looks very popular and busy.

Mad Squirrel opened at the start of the summer, and the tree-lined terrace with views of the Cathedral and Vintry Garden has to be one of the best locations in St Albans. If you manage to grab a table, this is the perfect spot to enjoy an after-work beer.

I went along one busy Friday evening when the heavens opened so we had to stay inside (the bar is over two floors) and it was pretty rammed. I had to wait at the bar for a while and was overlooked a couple of times for taller male customers, but managed to order a pint of their bestseller Sumo (an APA) beer, which was excellent.

Mad Squirrel have their own brewery in Potten End, and their list includes Zealous (a pils), a pale ale HopFest, a milk stout De La Creme and a London porter as well as various seasonal specials. You can get around 25 beers on tap in the bar which is a mixture of their own brews and guest beers from other independent producers. They also sell wine, spirits, ciders and prosecco (my pals wanted that so they do cater for all customers!). There is a short pizza menu and the ones I saw going past looked great; I need to go back and try them.

We went upstairs in search of a table and it didn’t seem to have much furniture up there; it might work better as a dining area? Or a private space for parties? We decided to stay downstairs which had a better atmosphere.

Mad Squirrel is growing fast, and they opened a bar in Harpenden just before Christmas, which is at the top of the High Street with a terrace overlooking St Nicholas Church. Both the Harpenden and St Albans bars hold live music and comedy events, so keep an eye out for those on their insta feed. The next one being advertised is on Saturday 31^st August in St Albans – Kirsty Fuller who sings blues, soul and roots.

Tim Hickford from Mad Squirrel told me: ‘St Albans is a prominent and historic beer city and we are absolutely thrilled to be contributing to that reputation and lineage in our own small way. We have been blown away with the positive response from customers, this has definitely been our highest profile opening to date. We can’t wait to become embedded in the local community and for residents and visitors of St. Albans to become acquainted with our broad range of unfiltered, unpasteurised, vegan-friendly beers.’

The brewery has only been producing beer since 2010 but has grown dramatically and now produces around 2 million pints annually. It holds the title of Hertfordshire’s best brewery in the RateBeer awards. As well as in their own bars and shops (they have a shop at the brewery) Mad Squirrel also sell in shops, hotels, pubs, bars and cafes in the area; you have probably seen their distinctive cans. You can book tours of the brewery for 25 a person which includes six tastings and pizza.

Mad Squirrel just had a very busy weekend at the UK Strongest Man competition in Verulamium park, and I am sure we will see them pop up at more local events and festivals now they have recovered from their two new openings.

Both the St Albans and Harpenden bars are open every day (check the website for specific times), so go along and support one of our local brewers!

Thompson, St Albans

Published in The Herts Advertiser 2019

I hadn’t been to Thompson St Albans for quite a while; I think of it as an expensive, special occasion option, so it had slightly fallen off my radar. But one of my pals was celebrating a birthday so we thought we’d go; I’d seen pics of the outside terrace on instagram so we made a last-minute booking for lunch.

The terrace is a quiet, flower-filled space, which feels like an escape from the city centre. You can sit in the room that opens out to it too, if you prefer shade; it still has a lovely light feel to it.

We chose from the midweek set menu (18.50 for three courses, and 14.95 for two) which is a steal compared to their main menu. With just three options for each course you should probably check before you book, but we both (a vegetarian and an omnivore) were happy with what was on offer, and it was great to see the menu focusing on seasonal ingredients.

I chose end of season asparagus with confit yolk, marinated feta and watercress. The waiter told me that the asparagus came from Marianne’s (Phil Thompson’s partner) father’s allotment, and it was full of flavour and cooked to keep its snap. The confit egg was a brilliant idea – a perfect globe of egg yolk which tasted delicious with the asparagus but without the runny-ness that I think can look a mess.

My main course was a generous plate of hake with summer vegetables. The hake was lovely and I enjoyed the vegetable stew that came with it, although I was surprised to have this on a warm day. Antonia chose butter roasted artichoke with spinach, fried duck egg and truffle dressing. Antonia has an Italian family and is an excellent cook and was delighted to see artichoke on the menu, which she told me she rarely sees in the UK. She loved this dish, which is high praise. We ordered side dishes, but they weren’t really needed as each main was enough in itself.

Don’t skip pud – they were delicious; my poached gooseberries with a vanilla madeline, lemon curd and meringue was divine. I tried a little of Antonia’s roasted apricots with nut crumble and that was heavenly too. The puds aren’t huge, but let’s be honest, we don’t really need them to be, do we?

Service was friendly and informed, and it was lovely to be given little tasters and fresh bread before our starters arrived. With many of the town centre pubs and restaurants now charging towards £15 for a main course (you can spend that on a pizza), this really is exceptional value. Of course the main menu served at weekends and evenings is more expensive, but I love that there is an affordable option if you want to go midweek.

For St Albans people who are used to eating in London, Thompson’s ‘relaxed fine dining’, white tablecloths, ‘Ladies who lunch’ and ‘date night menu’ might seem a little untrendy, but the cooking really is excellent. With a decent wine list, talented front of house and cooking that you really wouldn’t manage to do at home, Thompson’s is old-school, but in a good way. You can see why he has picked up Michelin awards as well as local best restaurant awards.

Phil is also a familiar face at the various local food festivals and events. He and his team will be cooking at Pub in the Park with Tom Kerridge later this year (Phil and Tom are pals), when the main restaurant will be closed (13-15^th September). Each dish will be £5 and the menu will be braised beef brisket with celeriac and truffle puree, crayfish burger with spiced lobster mayo, and butternut squash risotto with smoked feta, pickled squash, black olive and crispy wild rice.

So Thompson’s is a lovely option if you want a summer holiday lunch that feels special, without having to hop on a train or a plane.

The George of Harpenden

Published in The Herts Advertiser July 2019

The George of Harpenden

You will have seen the building work taking place at The George on Harpenden High Street in the last few months, and at last the scaffolding is down and it’s open. It’s quite a transformation!

Dating back to the late 19^th century, it was originally known as The George Hotel, and it now has a slightly more aspirational name: The George of Harpenden.

I hadn’t been in for years, and the new look is dramatic; it’s a really large pub and they have created a lovely open feel, with areas for drinks at the front, booth seating, a large dining space near the open kitchen, a conservatory area (‘the garden room’), and outside seating too. And it’s open all day, from morning coffee through to dinner, so I think it will be a really useful addition to the town. Family friendly, which it needs to be in Harpenden, but you can also find a quiet corner if you want to work during the day or have a child-free drink. The styling reminds me of The Ivy in St Albans, with jungly wallpaper and swish seating; they have clearly spent a fortune. The open kitchen with a huge pizza oven and Josper grill is at the heart of the pub, which gives the place a buzz.

We went in for a midweek lunch; it isn’t clear when you walk in where you are meant to go (maybe someone at the door would help?) but the bartender was friendly and helpful. The menu is extensive, with sourdough pizzas, sharing meze plates, a ‘fire’ menu, steaks, burgers, pub classics, as well as a brunch menu, so I am sure you will find something you like. A huge menu is usually a bad sign, but they seem equipped to handle it, with plenty of staff walking around, and a busy kitchen.

The Josper grill menu has its own introduction (400C coals, everything roasted to perfection etc) so we ordered Moroccan spiced cauliflower steak, which came with tabbouleh and saffron soya yoghurt sauce (12.5). This was a generous, delicious lunch. Roasted lamb shank and tuna steaks sound good too, and I am sure suit the grill approach, although at 17.00, a bit pricey. Sides are extra.

I chose a pub classic to see if they can do that well too, and my cod and chips was lovely and well presented, with grilled lemon, pea purée, and a tartare sauce made with samphire and pickled cucumber. At 15.00 it’s quite pricey for the area. We sat near the bar at the front of the pub, not realising that there was a huge dining area at the back, but we weren’t forgotten and service was good.

You can definitely just go in for drinks; the cocktail and gin menus include all the classics, and there is a sensible wine list too – nothing hugely exciting, but absolutely fine for a pub of this size. The beer menu focuses on bottled beers but they do have Meantime pale ale on draft, which went well with my fish and chips.

Brunch and breakfast is available 8 until 3 (8–11 on Sundays) and sounds great, with cooked breakfasts, granola, pastries, smoothie bowl, shakshuka, eggs benedict and bubble and squeak. I have to mention the vegan English, as everything else is self-explanatory, and I haven’t seen this elsewhere locally – you get vegan sausages, tofu scramble, Josper-roasted tomatoes, bubble and squeak and butterbeans in tomato sauce. I think that sounds amazing, whether veggie/vegan or not. Sunday lunch will be hugely popular here, and they have plenty of large tables, ideal for groups. They serve the pub classics, and also mushroom wellington, rib-eye beef, lemon chicken and pork belly with prune and brandy stuffing. You can book online or ring, and I think weekend booking will be essential.

A lovely transformation, and I hope it can maintain its great first impression!

Outside at last!!

Published in The Herts Advertiser June 2019

I’m writing this with the rain lashing against the windows, but I am an optimist, and am pretty sure by the time you read this, the sun will be out! So, here is my round-up of some of the new and exciting places to go out and enjoy this summer.

St Michael’s Manor, down on lovely Fishpool Street has opened an outdoor bar for the summer. Located by the lake on the lawn, there is an outdoor bar and huge pizza oven, with seating for about 30 people. I went with the family one Sunday afternoon, and it felt as if we were on holiday; it is such a quiet and secluded part of the city, yet just a few minutes walk down from the Clock Tower. We shared a really good margarita pizza, served in a box, so you can take them onto the lawns or sit by the lake if you like; it’s very relaxed. The bar had a couple of beers on draft, Champagne and Prosecco and a good selection of gins. As they hold private functions at the weekends, the bar is only open to non-residents on Thursday and Sundays at the moment.

St Albans Vegan Market returns on Sunday 7^th July on St Peter’s Street, and there will be over 60 stalls, including lots of street food. Local companies The Green Kitchen and Tara’s Vegan Treats will be there, along with some new names to try: Cake me Happy, Global Fusion Vegan Creole, Replete Flatbreads, April’s Table, Raw Spirit Chocolate Company, Greek Vegan Deli, Home Kitchen Indian, Sun and Moon Juice and The Green Grill. The market is free entry and open 10.30–4.

Darlish ice cream near the Clock Tower is always busy on a sunny day. Have you tried their Persian-inspired ice cream yet? They have just opened a pop-up shop in Covent Garden on Long Acre, which I spotted last week. It is a smart little shop, similar to their St Albans branch, and will be open until the end of September. I love the saffron, pistachio and rose, and the baklava ice cream sandwich is the instragram must-try.

The Childwickbury Arts fair returns on 5-7 July. They always have a quirky selection of pop-up food trucks, along with live music and some seating areas, so you can make a day trip of it. I like the sound of the Dotty Mares, who will be selling gin and Pimms from their converted horse box. Now Now Bunny Chow, MasterCrepes, The Split Screen Ice cream Co, Fired Up Pizza will also be there, along with Harpenden favourites Parker & Vine. Their salads and quiches are always delicious.

The new Mad Squirrel bar in St Albans has just opened, and has a lovely outdoor patio strung with white lights. It has to be one of the best locations in the city, with amazing views of the Cathedral. You will find it next door to Lussmann’s, both upstairs and downstairs. Mad Squirrel specialise in craft beer, including their own Mister Squirrel, Roadkill and Zealous which they brew over near Hemel. Mad Squirrel also have a bar in Harpenden; more on them in this column soon.

See you out there!

Tara’s vegan treats

Published in The Herts Advertiser May 2019

Vegan food is so popular now, with the stats showing that even people who don’t label themselves as vegan are choosing to eat plant-based food more often. If you think cooking vegan food is a hassle, then buying it ready-made for you is a really easy option. The rainbow-coloured Tara’s Vegan Treats stall in St Albans market is hard to miss, as is the queue that forms each Wednesday and Saturday.

I went along to buy lunch from Tara, and I loved the curry I chose, which was a generous box of spiced chickpeas, sweet potatoes, spinach, peppers, green beans, ginger, garlic and lemongrass in coconut sauce (7.00). It came with light and crispy paratha or poppadoms if you want a gluten-free option.

Tara told me that people often buy her food to take home, and although she is busiest at lunchtime when everyone escapes their offices, people buy from the stall from the moment it opens, as they can reheat it at work or home; dinner sorted.

Tara told me that she varies the menu according to the weather, but she tries to keep on the favourites as people miss them otherwise. Mac n’ cheese is always popular, as are the meatless meatballs. She also aims to make a vegetable-based dish too, for anyone who doesn’t like ‘mock’ meats; the Tex-mex chilli and coconut curry are popular. There is always a gluten-free option.

Tara is well-known for her puds, and you do have to get to the stall quickly as once they are gone, that’s it! Her bestseller is the Warm salted caramel pudding and people often request it for their own parties and buy it by the tray. It is a gooey, caramel sponge soaked in salted caramel syrup, topped with dollops of caramel icing, white chocolate chips and melted fudge. It is served with vanilla whip. How amazing does that sound?

I asked Tara how the stall has been received in St Albans, and Tara told me that she started the stall around a year ago, and has now been able to make it her full-time job. She is now so busy that she does two days on the market, as well as food festivals (I saw her at the Sustainable St Albans Market Takeover) and Vegan Nights in London. Between market days Tara does cooking for private clients, for dinner parties, birthdays and weddings. She cooked for the Lush Christmas party and has just made 1300 pud pots for clothing giant Asos; they chose the After Eight, Lemon Cheesecake and Bounty pots.

You can buy the pud pots at the market stall, and they can be frozen at home or eaten straightaway; they don’t contain any eggs or dairy so store easily. The After Eight pot has a bottom layer of chocolate biscuit, then fudgy tiffin, with a top layer of dark chocolate ganache made with coconut milk.

Tara is hosting a supper club at Hatch on the Hill, which has already sold out so follow them both on instagram for any future dates. The set menu sounds great, with tikka pasty with raita or Notzarella sticks with tomato chutney for starters and a Hearty cottage pie or teriyaki ‘duck’ with noodles and mini pakoras for mains. Puds sound amazing with chocolate fudge cake, Snickers torte or a trio of eton mess, key lime pie or tiramisu. Vegan (and organic) wine will be supplied by Cellar Door, based on London Road.

Long-term, Tara would love to open aim a St Albans-based cafe or restaurant, so watch this space!

The Old Cock Inn

Published in The Herts Advertiser 23 May 2019

Harpenden seems to be having a bit of a moment – I wait years for new places to open, and then lots come along at once! I had never been in The Old Cock Inn right on the High Street, even though its been there since the 16^th century – have you?

I’m not sure what the regulars make of it, but it is now all very swish, with a huge new extension making the most of the beautiful views of St Nicholas Church to the back. Inside is now bright and spacious with red and blue Sanderson wallpaper, funky lampshades and a lot of chicken-themed artworks. We went for lunch on a sunny day and the terrace is lovely – some of the tables are reserved for those eating, but there is an area outside if you just want a drink too. I noticed a real fire in the main rooms, so I am sure it will be cosy in winter too.

Owned by the Charles Wells group, the beers on tap come from them, of course, such as Echo Beach Red Ale, Bombardier and Sharp’s Altlantic. Appropriately for Harpenden there is an extensive gin, wine and cocktail list. The pub is open all day, and they have a decent coffee machine and brunch menu for the weekends. There are six boutique bedrooms (we had a peak, very smart), so they will be feeding guests too. Brunch seems pretty reasonable for the area, with poached eggs and avocado for 7.00, a veggie cooked for 8.00, as well as meaty options.

Lunch has many options, with a sandwich menu, set menu and all the pub classics you might expect. For around a tenner you can choose fishfinger sandwiches, crayfish and chilli and minute steak sandwiches; I spotted one on a nearby table and it looked a little small, but nicely toasty.

I liked the look of the set menu, with two courses for 13.50. My roasted red pepper and sweetcorn croquettes with wild garlic cream was a nice starter; I couldn’t really taste the garlic, but that is probably a good thing at lunch. A few fresh garlic flowers would have made it more cheffy, as they are in season. The Malaysian-style vegetable and lime leaf curry with coconut rice (also on the main menu) was a little bland, although perfectly ok – a few lentils would have upped the protein for a more useful lunch, and it could have been a larger portion. I couldn’t taste the coconut in the rice. I noticed that on the main menu you could pay extra to add chicken, prawns or halloumi – I’m sure the chicken and prawns would work well, but halloumi seems a bit odd.

My pal chose the Thai Edamame bean burger with vegan aioli and fries, which was more successful; there were whole edamame beans in the burger and it had a nice crunchy coating.

The pub classics might be safer choices: they do cod and chips, roasted pork with Jersey royals, chicken pie, steak, bass with mushroom and pak choi and much more. With main courses from 13.50 to 25.00, it is quite expensive for a chain pub, but I imagine they think Harpenden can handle it. You are really paying for the lovely location, and for that I think it is well worth a visit. And if you have visiting relations and pals who need a room, then this is a good option. Parking is very limited, but it is the town centre, and reflects the history of the building.

A funky new addition to Harpenden!

Orexi!

Published in The Herts Advertiser April 2019

Harpenden celebrity chef Theo Michaels has written a wonderful book inspired by the flavours of Greece and Cyprus – perfect timing for any of us craving a trip to a warmer country!

Beautiful food sings from the pages of Orexi! (which means ‘good appetite’), with chapters called Meze, Sea, Land, Sun, Fire and Sundowners, which capture the Greek way of life. I like that many of the recipes are simple – in a departure for this column I’ve included a recipe as I think that will give you a real taste of the book.

Theo works locally and in London as a private chef after he changed career after MasterChef in 2014. He also appears regularly on This Morning, writes a weekly food column for Best magazine, and has presented at our own Food & Drink Festival. He is known for cooking ‘elegant village food’ inspired by the flavours of Greece and Cyprus for pop-up suppers too.

The Meze chapter features small sharing plates such as dips, cheeses and meatballs. Sea shows how you can get lots of flavour into simply cooked fish. Meat is a huge part of the Greek diet, with cooking over charcoal part of daily life so if you need ideas to make your barbecues more interesting, this is a useful chapter. Salads and vegetables reflect the warm climate, with peppers, herbs and tomatoes. Horta was new to me, which is steamed green vegetables with plenty of lemon juice, and would go with meat or fish or part of a shared meze lunch. There are also lamb recipes if you want something interesting for Easter, or a pork dish which is more traditional in Greece and Cyprus.

A lovely taste of summer!

RED PEPPER & FETA SALSA

peperia kai feta salsa

A classic Greek dip of roasted sweet peppers complementing the tangy feta. I add a fresh tomato to give it a sweet sharpness that I feel brings it all alive, but if you want something a little more sultry, you can use a sun-dried one. Like many dips, this also works really well as a marinade. I’ll also admit to adding some store-bought chilli sauce to it and pasting it over fish to roast in the oven.

2 red (bell) peppers, halved, pith and seeds removed

4 garlic cloves, unpeeled

4 sprigs of fresh thyme

4 tablespoons olive oil, plus extra for drizzling

a few drops of freshly squeezed lemon juice

a small pinch of cayenne pepper

1 ripe vine tomato (or 2 baby plum tomatoes)

100 g feta cheese, crumbled

1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

salt and freshly ground black pepper

SERVES 6

Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F) Gas 6. Place the pepper halves onto a baking sheet with a garlic clove and sprig of thyme under each one.

Drizzle with olive oil, season with a little salt and pepper and roast in the preheated oven for 20–25 minutes, until they start to char.

Squeeze the roasted garlic cloves out of their skins and drop them into the cup of a blender, followed by the roasted peppers, half the olive oil, the lemon juice, cayenne pepper and tomato. Blend to a pulp. Pour out the mixture, add the crumbled feta, the remaining olive oil and the chopped parsley, and fold through.I

Orexi! Photographer Mowie Kay, Publisher Ryland Peters & Small, Price £16.99.

Smallford Farm Shop

Have you been to the new cafe and farm shop in Smallford yet? You will spot it as you drive towards Hatfield, next to Glinwell’s giant greenhouses.

Stylish and spacious, the farm shop sells a really good range of foods such as bread, cheese, chocolate, wine, beer and much more from local, independent suppliers. The co-owners Sam Cannatella and Joe Colletti have worked hard to find products that you can’t find everywhere else, and it’s a lovely place to browse.

A must-buy are the tomatoes, aubergines and peppers that Glinwell grow themselves. They also make their own Cannatella & Colletti pasta sauces, which you will find right by the door as you go in. I was pleased to see that Hedges Farm supply the meat, and I spotted Twist Teas from Harpenden, oils from Mrs Middleton’s, gin from Campfire and Blackbridge, and Three Brewers and Farr Brew beers. The seeded loaf I bought was very good, and is baked by Seven Seeded in Watford.

There are some wonderful Easter treats in the shop at the moment. I really like the iced easter chick biscuits and pretty bars and boxes of chocolates, which I thought were reasonably priced. If you are quick you can enter the competition to win the giant (2.5kg!) Easter egg that you can’t fail to spot in the shop. Just go to the website http://www.smallfordfarmshop.com to enter by Sunday 14^thApril. The Jolly Choccy Sticks and Nom Nom bars are really unusual and would make good gifts; bee pollen chocolate sounds amazing!

The big draw is the cafe and on the times I have been it is far busier than the shop; we do all love a coffee shop in St Albans! The menu covers breakfasts and lunches as well as teas, coffees and cakes, and there is a nod to the family roots with some interesting Italian options. Breakfast includes full cooked options (9.95), smashed avocado with eggs, salmon or feta, pancakes with berries or bacon, and porridge and pastries. Lunch has a seasonal soup (4.50), sandwiches such as fish finger or salt beef served with salad or fries (around 7.50), and salads which are displayed in the counter, although they were almost finished when I went in.

Local suppliers are also used in the cafe, with sausages and burgers from Hedges and Glinwell’s own tomatoes feature in the Smallford tomato, burrata and basil salad. My goat cheese, pepper and red onion marmalade panini was good, although the salad needed a dressing of some kind. The arancini were a little oily, but the roasted tomato sauce with them was lovely. Blood orange pannacotta with vanilla biscuits on the specials board sounded amazing; one to try. Neal’s Yard supply the cheeses, and you can buy them in the shop or have a cheeseboard in the cafe, perhaps with some of the Italian wine or local beers on sale.

I think the popularity of the cafe has caught them out as it was a little chaotic when I went in. Customers had to ask for menus while they queued, which meant they didn’t know what was on offer before they reached the till; I wonder if a board up somewhere, or menus on the tables would help? There isn’t much space between tables either, but I noticed they were putting more tables outside on the terrace area, which will help with demand! It is early days though, and it is a nice problem to have.

The farm shop and cafe are open every day, and there is plenty of free parking in front of the shop. A welcome new addition to the area!

Fade to Black

I’ve lived near the Quadrant shops in St Albans for many years and I don’t think I’ve eaten lunch there, or been for a coffee; living just five minutes walk away makes it hard to justify! A new cafe has changed that, and I have now been three times to Fade to Black, as everyone seems curious to try it.

Fade to Black is owned by locals Vicky and Lee, who also own a cafe in Hanwell. The cafe has a great look, with dark grey painted walls, an exposed concrete ceiling, reclaimed wood counter and old school chairs. The space is larger than I expected, and there is seating for about 30 people, and when I went in one morning it was pretty full, with people having breakfast or working away at their laptops. It has a nice family-friendly feel too, and there is a large chalkboard on the wall near the loos that will amuse kids (or adults, of course!) for a while, as well as a box of toys.

Coffee is by Ozone who are based in Shoreditch and it’s great; a good depth of flavour and with the all-important crema. You can get all the usual coffees including flat whites, espressos, long black, cappuccino and latte and my long mac was perfect. They do a good range of teas and turmeric chai latte too; I had a rooibos one afternoon and it came in a smart pot that made enough for two good cupfuls. Prices compare well with the city centre coffee shops.

There is a nice selection of cakes and pastries on the counter; I noticed a gluten-free toffee cake, as well as brownies, flapjacks and carrot cake, and my caramel slice was excellent. Cakes and bakes are made locally by Lucy O’Reilly, and Jane’s Bakes in Wheathamstead.

They can make fresh juices while you wait, and they keep the menu simple, so no staring at an over-complicated menu trying to work out what the green goddess is. Simply choose one, two, or three juices from the list of orange, grapefruit, apple, carrot, beetroot, cucumber and spinach. You can add a shot of ginger or turmeric too. My orange and grapefruit juice was delicious.

The all day food menu has a really sensible range for what they can make in their open kitchen and I think is great value with most things under a fiver. It is mainly toasties, sandwiches and wraps, and my chilli smashed avocado on toasted sourdough for 4.20 was generous and the avos were perfectly ripe. I’ll choose the toasted tuna with tomato, paprika and rocket next time; I’ve never thought to pair tuna with paprika but it sounds good! Service has been good each time I’ve been in.

Meat-lovers might choose the croissant with ham and cheese, or the pastrami, swiss, pickles and mustard – a taste of New York right here in the Quadrant. As we go into spring, the two salads on the menu are bound to be popular too; they do a Greek-ish salad with feta, spinach leaves, tomato, olives and cucumber, and the mozzarella and basil salad, with avocado and pesto oil dressing sounds good, and again, both are under a fiver. Dolce Forne supply the breads, and ES Hulse & Son, the vegetables and fruits.

Vicky explained that they chose the name Fade to Black as the plan is to open in the evenings too, and the cafe does have a bar feel; keep an eye on how that develops. They already sell some almost-alcohol cocktails during the day including Seedlip-based English Garden and Citrus Zest.

Fade to Black is a great new addition to the Quadrant and I am sure I will be back.